The coast restoreth
On Sunday, from the get go, there were signs and portents – a guy walking by with a tee shirt that read “Don’t worry be happy!” – a billboard that said, “Today is the best day of my life!” and so it was that the day was crafted around this idea – we caught the bus early this morning to go to Zahara de los Atunes and as soon as we arrived, I felt like a dolphin in the water wanting to jump up and yell ARRIBA ARRIBA – it was a wonderful familiar homecoming to this Andalusian village.
But as we walked through the town, stopping to say hi to this one and that one, we noticed the wine store we loved was closed, and the cheese store was closed (turned into a clothing store) and we were a little aghast that the crisis was messing with our idyllic spot (later we learned thankfully the cheese store opened across the street to a smaller venue).
I have a photographic memory of Zahara from three years ago when we arrived and it is next to impossible to replace with a different view and yet there I was walking through the village looking different myself – come on, three years ago I had this luxurious head of hair and a Wall Street income – now all’s changed, I am different, I am no longer the store front I used to be – but yet, my dear friend, who has seen her own share of crisis in her life, said to me, “You are like a cannon, Rachel.”
We spent the day catching up with our friends; always starting with Tata first (she was Tatjana’s dear friend’s nanny) where Tin is treated to his ubiquitous Galletas Maria (cookies).
Then a stop at Isi’s (our friend’s partner who owns one of the best restaurants in town) to wish him happy birthday, and then onward to the Geisha’s (restaurant Pradillo) to meet other friends:
Then off with one to get her teenage son up for lunch (it was three o’clock!) and to the others to have said lunch (read: feast) – a jambalaya with cuttlefish, salmorejo (like gazpacho but less liquid), manchego with membrillo, tuna sashimi, and of course, a fabulous flan.
On the bus to and from Zahara we were treated to the icons of Spain – vast sunflower fields, big bad bulls, and modern windmills – Tin had asked for a game on my iPhone but I ignored him, then he kept his nose pasted to the window as no video game could compare to this view.
Our friend who is staying with us from Madrid said Zahara reminded him of his youth in Almeria, growing up with his brother on the coast. Tatjana’s father has always said, you can’t be on the coast for less than a month because it takes a full month of surf and sun to restore your sense of self.
Later in Cadiz, our friends said if he was wealthy every day would be like this day – then he amended and said, but look at us, we are rich, richer than kings.
Viva España, joy to the beach, and long live summer friends.